Penn Station

My model of Penn Station Baltimore is under way.  Have cast 30 columns for the station and 6 double size columns for the four corners.    Presently casting 21 window units for the two ends and the back side of the building.  Then I need 36 window units for the concourse that is along the back of the station and also across the tracks.  I build my masters out of styrene, then make a RTV rubber mold, and then cast using two part resins.  The rest of the building will be built from styrene and wood.  Really big project as it will be an 80% model and almost six feet long.  Hope to get some pictures on the blog soon showing the various castings.  Also need to cast some brick sidewalk to build the station platforms which were brick in the 50s based on some photos I have seen.

Back side of Penn Station Baltimore, MD

Two recent photos of the layout.

Fair Summit Station, Tunnel, and Coal Dealer

I M Warmer Coal Yard.

Scenery by Warren, Structures and Trestle scratch built by Jay.

Photos of the layout

These photos are from the WMRY Modelers site and were taken and posted by my scenery guy, Warren Hart.  They show his excellent scenery work and one of my structures a station, my "Twin" bridges, and my trestle.

Using Craft Paint instead of Expensive Model Paints

Watch this spot for information on using Craft Paints for model building.

Some Interesting Photos from the On30 Yahoo Group

Switch Machine Linkages Photos

Basic Method 1 Setup

Here are three machines set together.  The one on the left is using the sheath and rod.

Here you can see the push rod and clevis attached to the crank.

Two machines mounted vertically controlling a crossover.

A bell crank used to change direction of the push rods

Notice the one that used the bell crank is on its side.  The push rod extends through a hole in a girder.

Close up of the push rod thought the girder

The final result the 1/8" tube sticking up and a piece of .039" Piano wire operating the turnout.

Switch Machine Linkages Used by me on my O Scale layout

These methods allow you to mount the Tortoise switch machine under the sub roadbed at the edge of the layout where adjustments of the throw are much easier than under the layout.  Method 1 is for shorter distances and Method 2 uses a longer flexible set of sheath and rod that can be obtained rather long and can have some curves in it to reach a turnout that can’t be reached directly.

List of Materials:

.039” or smaller piano of music wire.  If I want a spring switch I would use say .025 wire instead

1/8” Brass Rod or Tube e.g. K & S.  I use tubes mainly.

5/32” Brass Tube for the Rod to rotate in.

3/16-1/4” x .032 - .064” Brass strip.  I have used both thicknesses. Don’t go any lighter then .032

2-56 threaded at one end push rod.  Available in 12 and 30 inch lengths

2-56 threaded clevis e.g. Tower Hobby LXK077 (12)

Tower Hobby LXFU90 Sullivan Flex Gold-N-Rod 36”.   Longer is available I believe. 2 sets include clevis and stud.

Ring Connector none insulated type for #6 studs.  This is the smallest you can get.  The hole in the ring is suitable for the Tortoise Phillips Head screw.

Directions:

Cut the brass strip about 1-1/2” long.  Drill one end with a 1/8” drill.  Drill several additional holes the size of the pin in the clevis which is about 1/16 or less. Cut a piece or 1/8” rod or tube about 3 inches long.  Cut a piece of 5/16 tubing about a ½ inch longer.  Clean up the cuts so the 1/8 slides smoothly in the 5/16 tubing.  Then as close to the end of the 1/8 drill a hole with a #58 drill or small if you are using a lighter piano wire.  Then apply some paste to the 1/8 bottom end and to the hole in the brass strip.  Insert the 1/8 into the strip.  Insert a short piece of piano wire in the hole.  Then align the tube parallel or at 90 degrees to the strip (depending on the position the turnout in relation to the switch machine) and holding 1/8 as straight up and down as possible apply solder to the parts.  One helpful thing is to drill a 1/8 hole about a 1/8 deep into a block of wood so the 1/8 piece can go through the strip and beyond a bit. The piano wire helps with the alignment. 

Drill a 5/16 inch hole through the roadbed and sub roadbed between two ties from the throw rod on the turnout.  Insert the 5/16 tube to the top is flush with the top of the ties.  Mount the switch machine under the layout.  Determine how long the push rod or sheath and rod needs to be as close as possible and attach the Ring connector to the none threaded end of the rod with paste and solder.  Now thread a clevis about half way onto the threaded end of the push rod or the stud if using method 2.  Attach the clevis one of the holes in the brass strip.  I generally use the hole the farthest from the tube, but you may have to change the hole depending on the amount of pressure required to properly throw the turnout.

Now from under the layout you can insert the 1/8 up into the 5/16 tube.  While holding it in that position you should be able to insert a piece of piano wire with a 90 degree bend into the 1/8 tube and the other end the throw rod of the turnout.  Some turnouts a have to enlarge that hold slightly to fit the piano wire I am using. 

Check to see how close you are with the ring connector to the hole in the switch machine throw.  Also is you center the switch machine throw first and center the turnout points, you can screw the push rod in or out to fine adjust the throw.  Insert the screw and tighten carefully but not tight.  Apply power to the switch machine and make additional adjustments.  For 90 degree situations you can also add Bell Cranks e.g. LXDCT6.  I have done this in a couple of situations.  In one example I wanted all the switch machines (4) in one location.  So to reach one turnout I set the switch machine 90 degrees, ran a push rod parallel to the edge of the benchwork to a bell crank and then to the turnout.  Works great.

When using the flexible method 2, secure the sheath several places e.g. drill a hole through a girder or use “U” shaped electrical staples.  I have the electrical staple gun for this.

Tomorrow I will post some photos of typical arrangements and uses.

For more information email me at James@thebeckhams.us

More Videos from 2015 East Penn Meet and Joe Frank's Layout

1/2 Inch Scale Elevated

City Trolley Scene HO - See Subway Below

Another Look at Joe Frank's Elevated NYC O Scale

East Penn Traction Meet and visit to Joseph Frank's NYC Elevated Layout

Fishing under the bridge O Scale

Nice house O Scale

Another nice house in O Scale

My dearest trolley fan next to large scale elevated.  I believe it is 1/2 inch scale.  The whole layout is about 100 feet long and portable and is generally at all East Penn Trolley meets.

Some O Scale background buildings about 2 inches deep.  The nice fire escapes are available commercially.

O Scale city scene.  Notice the building fronts on the left.

Joe Frank's long narrow basement elevated layout.  I lost count but he has at least 200 elevated and subway cars, trolleys, and buses.  Joe is a retired NYC policeman and one of the best known experts on everything elevated and subway in NYC.  This is all O Scale and unseen on the right is an HO version of the NYC elevated.

Another example of building fronts.  Joe's are removable for maintenance on the elevated or the trolley tracks below.

Looking below the elevated by removing several of the building fronts.

A typical station on the elevated.  The center track is for express trains with limited stops.

Another nice scene.  Notice the telephone pole.

Below are some short videos I shot with my Digital Camera.  I will post more later.

On the Elevated

Under the Elevated

Will post more videos Later.

Hand Laying O Scale Track - Lessons I have Learned

Putting 4 spikes per tie and using tie plates requires a great deal of patience.  However one can improve the experience by following some simple rules and procedures.  Here are lessons I have learned in the process of Hand Laying.

1. Keep your feet and legs comfortable by using a fatigue mat.
2. Put some music on.
3. Lay a rail out on your ties using T pins to hold it roughly in place.
4. Insert a tie plate under the rail about every 8 or 9 ties for up to the length of the rail or tow you reach the location of a switch.
5. Insert two spikes in each tie plate but DO NOT drive the spikes home.  Leave them loose.
6. Insert tie plates between the 1st and 2nd and 2nd and 3rd tie that was inserted in 4 above.
7. Spike the first set of 7 or 8 tie plates driving the spikes home.  
8. Then drive the 1st spikes home and the 2nd two spikes home.
9. Then insert another 7 or 8 between the next set of ties.
10. Then go back to #6 and repeat.

What this effectively does is make is easy to insert tie plates between set as the "boundary" spikes were not driven home and the rail is still a bit loose.

Then repeat this for the second rail using 3 way track gauges to control the spacing on the second rail.  Always double check the gauge by using the standard NMRA gauge.

Back to Spiking.

Penn Station Progress

Here are some ties with the final Raw Umber/Ebony stain on them.

Here is the beginning of hand laid track including tie plates.  This inclusion of the tie plates looks great but is a very slow process.   I am considering only using the tie plates where they can be seen.  They are just small plastic plates but are rather expensive as you need so many, two per tie.  The rail was painted with Earth Brown and then lightly sanded off the tops.

Progress At Penn Station Hand Laid Track

The first photo shows the ties all glued down.  Tuesday and Wednesday I sanded them with a power sander.  The kind with a flat rectangle base and used 120 grit paper.  Worked pretty well.  After sanding Warren used a fine tooth saw blade to make ridges in most of the ties to create some grain.

Then on Thursday I applied Min-wax Classic Gray Stain to all the ties taking care to not miss any spots on the sides and ends of the ties.

Another area of the ties with the stain.

 Then today, Friday, after the stain had dried I streaked the ties very lightly with Min-Wax Ebony stain to create oil, grease, and cinder stains on the ties. 

Another section of the Ebony stained ties.

After this dries overnight I will put down the final coloring using Raw Umber to give the ties a brown look.  The gray and Ebony will show though to some degree.  Some will receive a darker treatment to represent new ties and some very little brown to give them a faded look of old ties.

Stay Tuned!